CRAG CLEAN-UP AT PS TRAMWAY - AUGUST 30th

Come join the SoCal bouldering community on August 30th as we pick up trash, build trails, and show good stewardship of our crags at the Palm Springs Tramway - one of SoCal's best granite bouldering area. Clean-up starts at 9:30am at Ranger Station - The SB Crew will be carpooling - contact Paul if you need a ride: paul@integrity7.com
For more info: www.socalbouldering.com

OR TRADE SHOW & GO DUBS, SON! V10 FA

We are currently at the Outdoor Retail show in SLC promoting BOULDERING 101 With Matt Birch... Please stay tuned for SBBOULDERING updates including, Jondo's FA of GO DUBS, SON! a new and burly V10 dyno on the lower Noir boulder. Video and photos to follow...
SLC - Bouldering 101 Release Party: The Keg was empty in 20 minutes! 250 Pint Glasses and 300 Free Evolv Sandals - Gone in 60 Seconds.

The Crew: Sharma, Diddy, Lindner, and Bitter

BRICKYARD AND LIZARD'S MOUTH TO OFFICIALLY OPEN WED 07/30

Below is the official announcement from Santa Barbara County:
Fire officials declared the Gap Fire fully contained yesterday at 6:00pm. The human-caused fire started on Tuesday, July 1, in the Lizard’s Mouth area along West Camino Cielo. It burned 9,443 acres and destroyed 4 outbuildings, but no homes.
Some smoke may occasionally be seen coming from within the perimeter of the fire. Fire personnel will continue to monitor the area.

The emergency closure surrounding the Gap Fire will be lifted effective Wednesday, July 30. The section of West Camino Cielo from just west of the Winchester Gun Club to just east ofBroadcast Peak will remain closed to all vehicle traffic until further notice. (This does not include access to Lizard's Mouth or Brickyard trailheads)
For more information about the Gap Fire, call 805-961-5745 or 805-961-5759.

BRICKYARD and LIZARD'S MOUTH UPDATE!!

A report just came in courtesy of Mark S. - thanks Mark!
"I went to the Yard yesterday. The vast majority of the problems are fine... I didn't see any broken holds or charred classics. There are a few insignificant boulders in the outskirts of the yard that are pretty black though. However, the majority of the Yard is now exposed and the rock feels noticeably slicker, especially Smooth Criminal. It is sunny, fly-ridden, and most annoyingly of all, super dusty. The approach is now a fire road of super loose dirt that all but buries your feet. When you lay your pad down for a send, ash dust flies everywhere, making breathing somewhat more difficult. We all felt dirty when we left, and rightfully so given that we were dusted with ash and dirt. I'm sure that with rain and time this will get better.
Afterward we went over to Lizard's Mouth, which was much more pleasant (until i couldn't stick the dyno on king dinosaur). But that's another story..."

Stay tuned for photo updates from SB BOULDERING.COM

BRICKYARD OR MORDOR? - YOU BE THE JUDGE

Dano's favorite cave to "frollic in" featuring the classic WATCH THE DOG, V5 now looks like Gollum's hideout.
Well... here it is, exclusive photos of a few BRICKYARD classics, courtesy of Evan Ludmer.
From the photos and Evan's first hand account, it appears the classics are still intact. You can see chalk and even a few green leaves. However, the final report will not come until we can actually climb on the rock. Unfortunately, as the photos show, the once shady, Shire-Like forest of the Yard has been reduced to a blackened scene from the land of Mordor...

The once shaded SMOOTH CRIMINAL, V7 (left side of the boulder) is now in the blazing sun.

YETI, V4 and SASQUATCH, V5 in the heart of the Yard is now a border between the burnt forest of the All-Seeing-Eye (right) and the last green remnants of The Shire (Left)
Please hit us up with any updates you may have as well.

BRICKYARD BURNT - ALL OF WEST CAMINO CIELO CLOSED

Photo Courtesy of Ray Ford - The SB Independent
From all first hand Firefighter accounts and press allowed on West Camino Cielo Rd, the heavily Chaparraled area containing our bouldering mecca THE BRICKYARD has officially gone up in flames. This Chaparral hasn't burned in 50 years so the fire, which allegedly originated near the Lizard's Mouth area and was human caused, spread quickly and out of control.
In the past, climbing areas damaged by fire react in one of two ways:
A. Either the fire is so hot and close to the boulders it literally cooks the rock and turns into unclimbable charcoal choss.
B. The fire leaves the rock untouched and clears the way for new development and boulders unaccessible in the past.
So let's keep hope alive for option B. Although, one of the most attractive features of The Yard is (was) the shaded forest which kept the temps down and the aesthetics high.

Robin Gee attempting the classic Sasquatch, V5 @ The Brickyard in the shade...pre-fire Photo By: Paul Dusatko
Please follow the link below to view an interactive map of the fire's burn perimeter (as of July 3rd) - The Brickyard and Lizard's Mouth are located in the upper left corner of the perimeter.
CLICK HERE - INTERACTIVE MAP
On a brighter note:
It appears the main Lizard's Mouth climbing areas remain untouched as of July 7th, 2008. We have also had a thick Marine Layer move in yesterday evening assisting Fire Fighters as the blaze perimeter expands to the North away from Goleta and SB.
Jondo in "The Mouth" Photo: Paul Dusatko (Pre-Fire)
For daily updates on the Gap Fire as whole:
CLICK HERE
We will be updating SB BOULDERING as new information becomes available.

FEATURED PROBLEM: GRIN & BEAR IT, V7 - BRICKYARD

Dano on the Start - Diddy on the Photo
This month we feature GRIN & BEAR IT, V7 at the Brickyard. Put up in 1998 by The Real OC Crimpmaster, Scott Sanchez, GRIN & BEAR IT is a true crimp anomaly at The Yard. Starting with a power crux on a smiley face micro-crimp-match to a low percentage deadpoint that gains the first of 4 "positive" crimp moves involving kung fu like body tension and yet another deadpoint for the crux sloper on SOUTH STREET, V3/4; GRIN & BEAR IT goes down as the main crimp rig at the yard. ALL MOD CONS, V9 maybe the only other problem that compares to the finger power needed to fire.
SCOTT "SCO" SANCHEZ shows us how it's done.** Photos By Bob Banks



**The orginal FA traversed into the start of SOUTH STREET and up this established line giving it a grade of V6 as noted in Bob's Ocean's 11 Guide Book. Recent activity on the problem has re-established GRIN & BEAR IT into a solid V7 test piece as the starting jugs on SOUTH STREET have been deemed off route for the full value send.

BOULDERING WORLD CUP - UPDATED WITH PHOTOS!!

Courtesy of Susanica Tam